Blue-Green Algae Test Kit
DIY test for blue-green algae at home or in the field. This easy-to-use test detects 11 hepatotoxins common in blue-green algae in a single test. Samples can be taken and tested in the field in just 10 minutes, without the need for a lab. It means you get a good idea whether a waterbody is toxic, so you can immediately cordon it off from people and wildlife. Available in 3 x kits. For bulk orders, call 1300 283 387.
Highlights
- DIY testing–perfect for field work
- Fast–results in 10 mins
- No lab required–identify toxins in minutes not days
- Accuracy 1 μg/L to 100 μg/L
- Provides an indication of the concentration of toxins
How to use the Blue-Green Algae Test
- Fill a container with the water intended for testing
- Open one of the test kits, take a test cassette (C) and place it on a flat surface.
- Place the closed test package box on a flat surface. Open a perforated hole in the box for the sample jar.
- Always use gloves when handling the wet sample jar. Water may splash out of the jar when it heats up, so keep paper or hand towels at hand.
- Immerse the sample jar (A) in the water container and keep it submerged in an inclined position for approx. 15 seconds. Ensure the hole in the middle of the lid fills up with water in order for the test to function.
- Place the water-filled sample jar in the hole on the package box. A chemical reaction will heat up the sample jar, so beware of the hot steam!
- Wait at least 10 minutes.
- Using the pipette (B), draw up water from the middle hole of the sample jar. Drop three drops into the smaller hole on the test cassette (C).
- Wait for 5 Minutes, until 1 or 2 lines appear on the test cassette.
How the Blue-Green Algae Test Works: The Science Behind It
The Blue-Green Algae Test detects 11 commonly occurring hepatotoxins ⁽ᴹᶜ⁻ᴸᴿ, ⁻ᵈᵐ¹ᴿ, ⁻ᴿᴿ, ⁻ᵈᵐᴿᴿ, ⁻ᴸᴬ, ⁻ᴸʸ, ⁻ᴸᶠ, ⁻ᴸᵂ, ⁻ʸᴿ, ⁻ᵂᴿ ᵃⁿᵈ ᴺᵒᵈ⁻ᴿ⁾ in each test kit. It works by utilising a single-step immunocomplex assay (i.e., immunoassay) method. An immunoassay method is used to detect the presence or quantity of a substance, such as hormones, drugs or specific proteins. An immunoassay refers to any test that depends on binding an antigen (e.g. a protein, peptide, polysaccharide etc) with an antibody. An antibody is a specialised protein which recognises and binds with only one antigen. This is the basis of the test–if there is a connection, we know that a specific antibody is present. In this case, the Blue-Green Algae Test looks for a connection with one or more of the antibodies present in all common microcystins and nodularins, aka blue green algae.
Where the Blue-Green Algae Test really shines though is its ability to detect large groups of low molecular weight analytes common in Australian cyanobacterial (blue green algae) species, e.g. Microcystis aeruginosa, Nodularia spumigena. Traditionally, assays have been limited to testing larger analytes which restricted their ability to detect a broad range of cyanotoxins. In other words, the low molecular weight cyanotoxins common in blue green algae were invisible without a lab test. The Blue-Green Algae Test brings these analytes into the visible spectrum for the everyman field tester. Unlike the complex, multi-step process of traditional immunoassays, the Blue-Green Algae Test utilises a single-step in-vitro approach to see if the (antigen and antibody) puzzle pieces fit, signalling the presence of hepatotoxins. The test takes just 10 minutes to process and provides results within 1 μg/L to 100 μg/L. It means you get a very good idea whether toxins are present at a waterbody immediately, not days later when the lab results come in and the toxins have spread.
The result will show as a positive (2 lines) or negative (1 line) reading. It will also provide an indication of the concentration of detected cyanotoxins through the strength of the test line. A very dark line suggests a high concentration of cyanotoxins, while a lighter, more faded line suggests a lower concentration of toxins.
DISCLAIMER: If you receive any symptoms when using the water, e.g. diarrhoea, nausea, vomiting, skin, eye or throat irritation, allergic reactions, breathing difficulties etc, immediately stop using the water, even if the test result shows negative. Even a small amount of blue green algae toxins can cause illness to people and wildlife.
Follow up testing
We highly recommend testing your water again post treatment to make sure the blue-green algae is completely gone before using the water again. You can purchase 3 x Blue-Green Algae Test Kits here for this reason.
WARNING! Blue-green algae is toxic
Until you get a negative test result, make sure you…
- Do NOT have any skin contact with water contaminated by blue-green algae.
- Do NOT let any animals drink from contaminated water.
- Turn OFF any equipment such as fountains, pumps, sprinklers that may cause the infected water to mist over land. If this can’t be avoided, e.g irrigation, then irrigate at a time of day that avoids human contact.
- Do NOT use infected water to irrigate food crops that are close to harvest or that may hold water e.g leafy greens.
- Wear PPE if concerned about spray drift.
- Do NOT eat or rub your eyes/nose/mouth before washing your hands thoroughly.
- Do NOT eat fish or crustaceans caught from an infected water body.
Treating blue-green algae
If you suspect you have blue-green algae, it’s best to first assess what the water is used for and how quickly you need to use it. If you have the luxury of time, then implementing aeration and a probiotic like Biostim to change environmental conditions and introduce competing (beneficial) species will give you the best chance of getting rid of the blue-green algae without it releasing its toxins.
If you need to use the water quickly and thus remove the algae quickly, then you may need to look at algaecides. Just beware, with algaecide use comes a risk because some blue-green algae release toxins when ‘attacked’. So, while you may visibly get rid of the blue-green algae in the water, you may also end up with toxins in your water that can’t be seen. Note: you should use fresh water (not from the dam) when diluting the algaecide, so any spray drift is free of toxic algae.
